May 15, Tuesday
I was supposed to be spending the day on Miyajima Island, visiting the Itsukushima Shrine and using the Ropeway to go up the mountain {The island prospered for centuries before Hiroshima Castle’s construction, as the heart of Seto Inland Sea economy and culture. It dates back to the 12th century.} but it is raining this morning and the forecast is the same for the entire day. No point in making a long trip there by metro, train and ferry and a long trip back again, to spend hours in the rain with not much of a view because of the rain.
Good thing I purchased some items to simply eat breakfast in my room… with a little taste of home
Cream cheese ! Mt. Rainier café latte ! OK, the bun is not the type we eat at home, because it contains sweet beans (from which they make sweet bean paste) but it does taste very good with the cream cheese !
And look at how wet it is out there. The clouds are so low we can't see the mountains in the background.
I’m catching up on my blog however, which is a good thing.
After my visit of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, I was intrigued to find out how it all started and who was in charge in Japan during the WWII debacle and what led to it. I found a great site on the Internet that recapped it quite well.
Sorry if I'm boring you, but I'm a history buff !
“In 1933, Japan withdrew from the League of Nations since she was heavily criticized for her actions in China. In July 1937, the second Sino-Japanese War broke out. A small incident was soon made into a full scale war by the Kwantung army which acted rather independently from a more moderate government. The Japanese forces succeeded in occupying almost the whole coast of China and committed severe war atrocities on the Chinese population, especially during the fall of the capital Nanking. However, the Chinese government never surrendered completely, and the war continued on a lower scale until 1945.
In 1940, Japan occupied French Indochina (Vietnam) upon agreement with the French Vichy government, and joined the Axis powers Germany and Italy. These actions intensified Japan's conflict with the United States and Great Britain which reacted with an oil boycott. The resulting oil shortage and failures to solve the conflict diplomatically made Japan decide to capture the oil rich Dutch East Indies (Indonesia) and to start a war with the US and Great Britain.
In December 1941, Japan attacked the Allied powers at Pearl Harbour and several other points throughout the Pacific. Japan was able to expand her control over a large territory that expanded to the border of India in the West and New Guinea in the South within the following six months.
The turning point in the Pacific War was the battle of Midway in June 1942. From then on, the Allied forces slowly won back the territories occupied by Japan. In 1944, intensive air raids started over Japan. In spring 1945, US forces invaded Okinawa in one of the war's bloodiest battles.
On July 27, 1945, the Allied powers requested Japan in the Potsdam Declaration to surrender unconditionally, or destruction would continue. However, the military did not consider surrendering under such terms, partially even after US military forces dropped two atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki on August 6 and 9, and the Soviet Union entered the war against Japan on August 8. On August 14, however, Emperor Showa finally decided to surrender unconditionally.”
But who was in power? The emperor, Japanese Parliament? I don’t remember learning any of this during History classes in High School. We only learned about "our" side of the story.
“The decision to attack Pearl Harbor was reached after five months of deliberations that included numerous official conferences. It was a gradual process in which more sympathetic, albeit firm, US engagement might have helped sway Japan in a different direction. In fact, Japanese government opinion was so divided that it is surprising that it was able to unite in the end. Many in the Japanese army initially regarded the Soviet Union as the main threat facing the country. Others saw the US as the primary enemy. Some were concerned with more abstract, ideological enemies, such as communism and "Americanism", while there were also voices highlighting the menace of the "white race" (including Japan's allies, Germany and Italy) against the "yellow race".
Then there were those who preferred not to fight any enemy at all, particularly the US, whose long-term war-making power, the government knew, far surpassed Japan's own. The tactical mastermind of the Pearl Harbor operation, Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, was one of them. Over the course of the summer of 1941, events slowly tilted Japan toward the possibility of war with the west. But Pearl Harbor was in no way inevitable. Germany's attack on the Soviet Union compelled Japan in July 1941 to prepare a plan of attack. Although it made clear Japan's desire to take advantage of the European conflict and gain a foothold in the European colonies in Southeast Asia, the plan was not clear about who constituted Japan's true enemy.
Japan's military thrust into Southeast Asia led President Franklin Delano Roosevelt's administration to impose sanctions. The US froze Japanese assets, an example followed by Britain and the Dutch East Indies. When Japan responded by taking over southern French Indochina, the US retaliated by imposing an embargo on oil exports to Japan. Rather than telling Japan that the US was determined to search for a diplomatic solution, America's categorical reaction confirmed it to the Japanese as an arrogant and conceited enemy. Moreover, by transferring its Pacific fleet from San Diego to Pearl Harbor, the US encouraged the Japanese understanding that the US fully anticipated war with Japan.
The Second World War in the Pacific finally came about for many different reasons. But it was, above all, the sense of encirclement and humiliation that united the deeply divided Japanese government. Feeling defeated by a series of failed approaches to the US, including an overture to hold direct talks with Roosevelt, Prime Minister Fumimaro Konoe resigned on October 16, making hard-line army minister Hideki Tōjō his successor.
[TOJO = That rings a bell ! probably from watching old WWII movies.]
The high-handed tone of the Hull Note of November 26, demanding Japan's withdrawal of all its troops from China, was a final blow to the moderates in Japan's government, who still hoped for diplomatic negotiations. By this time, many policymakers were convinced that the US was not ready to hear them out. It was ultimately in the name of saving Asia for all Asians from what was regarded as western arrogance that the government united to wage war. On December 1, it was decided that the war would commence in six days.”
And I saw the results of that decision yesterday here in Hiroshima.
The covered sidewalks along Chuo-dori Avenue
Vending machines are everywhere in Japan; almost every street corner has them. They sell water, pop, beer, tea, juice and sometimes ice cream !
I pass another covered shopping street, but I'm heading the other way
It is about a half hour walk north from the Oriental Hotel, along Hakushima Dori Avenue. By the time I arrive at the park it is pouring rain. Where was that park? I go down one of the small streets, which should be at the back of the park and sure enough, I can see it behind the buildings on the main street, but there is a sign indicating that this gate is closed, with a map showing how to get back to the main entrance. U-TURN ! Back a few blocks the way I came and there it is.
The street sign showing the turn for the park ! How could I have missed that ? The fact that it is in Japanese obviously did not help.
I make it into the Shukkeien Gardens and pay my fee to get in. It is a beautiful park, but it is very wet.
A beautiful stream runs through the first portion of the park
and then I reach the lake, and IT IS POURING RAIN.
Hélène.... I tried taking photos of rain drops, but I guess my camera just isn't powerful enough.
I’m starting to feel a bit down because of the rain when I spot a group taking formal wedding pictures in the garden.
OK, I have absolutely no reason to feel sorry for myself…. ♫♫♫ I’m singing in the rain ♫♫♫....
Well, humming actually since it is so peaceful. The gardens are lovely despite the rain and I spend about an hour walking along the small paths. The area is about 40,000 sq m.
A series of little bridges to get across the lake
The Kyobashi-gawa River flows beside the Shukkeien Gardens
Some areas only have stepping stones and I have to be careful because they are wet and slippery
And some areas have beautiful river rocks. Helene.... you would love Japan and its fondness for rocks.
“Construction of the gardens began in 1620 for Asano Nagaakira’s installation as Daimyo (Feudal Lord) of Hiroshima. Takuei Pond is in the center and the pathways form a circular path around it. Its name (literally shrink-scenery garden) expresses the idea of collecting and miniaturizing many scenic views. Around the circumference are mountains, valleys, bridges, tea cottages and arbors all skillfully arranged. In 1945, the garden was destroyed by the atom bomb. By 1951 it has been partially restored and is opened to the public.”
“A large number of survivors took refuge here immediately following the bombing, but died before receiving medical care. Their remains were interred within the garden.” Hopefully they have found eternal peace within this beautiful setting.
I'm half way around the lake, and each view provided a different perspective
Koko-kyo Bridge (Stradling rainbow bridge)
A wooden bridge in one of the coves
Beautiful reflections in the water of the lake
And no, I'm not the only crazy person walking around in a park in the pouring rain !
As I make my way back towards the main gates, I take a last picture of an iris, covered in rain drops.
The map of Shukkeien Park
The Torii Gates at the side entrance to Hiroshima Castle Grounds
and of course there is a moat around it
There is nothing left of the buildings but a few stones in a field.
The rebuilt Castle Tower
I make my way to the rebuilt guard tower in the far north-west corner. It now houses a museum.
This is what Hiroshima Castle grounds looked like in the 1640's. With a series of three moats and the houses where the support staff lived in the surrounding areas.
Roof ornaments. These are usually fish. Why fish? Because they believed, somehow, that the "water" sign would ward off fires.
This is a museum picture of the Guard Tower before the bombing
This is a picture of what was left after the bombing.
The Tower has 5 floors, and at the top I am rewarded with
an amazing view. Its strategic position on top of a hill, gives it great views
over the city.
A view from the top
Looking out over the grounds of the Castle
Great view of the city and the baseball dome
I will be going to this park when I leave the grounds
I head south through the grounds of the Hiroshima Castle and make my way to the southern gate.
I come across the grounds to a shrine that has been rebuilt. And an elegant statue of a horse at its gate.
Statue of a lion-dog guarding the shrine
The shrine is open, but I keep going towards the outer gates.
The walls surrounding the castle are still here. Some obviously rebuilt, others look like they've survived the bombing.
And I arrive at the last set of gates. It looks old because of the style, but it is all new construction
I’m about to exit the grounds when I decide to enter the last gate tower. What a great decision. All newly reconstructed, it still smells of cedar !
They have the architectural models of everything they have rebuilt in this section, all to scale
The inside of the long building is now a museum, but back then it was the living quarters for the guards.
All the rafters are visible. One of them is already cracked. I wonder if they will have to replace it?
This drum looks like it could be original wood (not the stand or the hides though). The drum was used to call out the hours.
Taking a peak outside the guard windows. It would have been easily protected in those days.
I finally exit the grounds and walk over the newly reconstructed bridge.
A great view of the reconstructed tower from here. I was on the top floor taking pictures of the park I am now standing in, less than an hour ago.
The statue in the middle of the park
The fountain in front of the Hiroshima Art Museum
I was thinking of visiting the Hiroshima Museum of Art, just across the street from the castle grounds, but it was 3:30 by then, I was tired and needed to give my legs and feet a rest, so I headed for the underground shopping area of Kamiya-cho, which I had discovered the day before. I found a nice little restaurant where they served a tasty vegetable quiche (it had roasted squash in it ! YUM). I finished off my meal with a cup of hot lemon tea and a small piece of chocolate cake; a tort really, nice and tart with rich chocolate.
The underground shops
I returned to the hotel using the covered shopping streets for most of the way. I’d been looking for a camera shop so that I could buy a spare battery for my new camera. OK, I’m in Japan! Where are the camera shops? Did not see even one, and I even went off the main streets I had previously walked and took some smaller side streets filled with shops. No camera shops anywhere!
Night view of Hiroshima from my bedroom window.
I was supposed to be spending the day on Miyajima Island, visiting the Itsukushima Shrine and using the Ropeway to go up the mountain {The island prospered for centuries before Hiroshima Castle’s construction, as the heart of Seto Inland Sea economy and culture. It dates back to the 12th century.} but it is raining this morning and the forecast is the same for the entire day. No point in making a long trip there by metro, train and ferry and a long trip back again, to spend hours in the rain with not much of a view because of the rain.
Good thing I purchased some items to simply eat breakfast in my room… with a little taste of home
Cream cheese ! Mt. Rainier café latte ! OK, the bun is not the type we eat at home, because it contains sweet beans (from which they make sweet bean paste) but it does taste very good with the cream cheese !
I’m catching up on my blog however, which is a good thing.
After my visit of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, I was intrigued to find out how it all started and who was in charge in Japan during the WWII debacle and what led to it. I found a great site on the Internet that recapped it quite well.
Sorry if I'm boring you, but I'm a history buff !
“In 1933, Japan withdrew from the League of Nations since she was heavily criticized for her actions in China. In July 1937, the second Sino-Japanese War broke out. A small incident was soon made into a full scale war by the Kwantung army which acted rather independently from a more moderate government. The Japanese forces succeeded in occupying almost the whole coast of China and committed severe war atrocities on the Chinese population, especially during the fall of the capital Nanking. However, the Chinese government never surrendered completely, and the war continued on a lower scale until 1945.
In 1940, Japan occupied French Indochina (Vietnam) upon agreement with the French Vichy government, and joined the Axis powers Germany and Italy. These actions intensified Japan's conflict with the United States and Great Britain which reacted with an oil boycott. The resulting oil shortage and failures to solve the conflict diplomatically made Japan decide to capture the oil rich Dutch East Indies (Indonesia) and to start a war with the US and Great Britain.
In December 1941, Japan attacked the Allied powers at Pearl Harbour and several other points throughout the Pacific. Japan was able to expand her control over a large territory that expanded to the border of India in the West and New Guinea in the South within the following six months.
The turning point in the Pacific War was the battle of Midway in June 1942. From then on, the Allied forces slowly won back the territories occupied by Japan. In 1944, intensive air raids started over Japan. In spring 1945, US forces invaded Okinawa in one of the war's bloodiest battles.
On July 27, 1945, the Allied powers requested Japan in the Potsdam Declaration to surrender unconditionally, or destruction would continue. However, the military did not consider surrendering under such terms, partially even after US military forces dropped two atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki on August 6 and 9, and the Soviet Union entered the war against Japan on August 8. On August 14, however, Emperor Showa finally decided to surrender unconditionally.”
But who was in power? The emperor, Japanese Parliament? I don’t remember learning any of this during History classes in High School. We only learned about "our" side of the story.
“The decision to attack Pearl Harbor was reached after five months of deliberations that included numerous official conferences. It was a gradual process in which more sympathetic, albeit firm, US engagement might have helped sway Japan in a different direction. In fact, Japanese government opinion was so divided that it is surprising that it was able to unite in the end. Many in the Japanese army initially regarded the Soviet Union as the main threat facing the country. Others saw the US as the primary enemy. Some were concerned with more abstract, ideological enemies, such as communism and "Americanism", while there were also voices highlighting the menace of the "white race" (including Japan's allies, Germany and Italy) against the "yellow race".
Then there were those who preferred not to fight any enemy at all, particularly the US, whose long-term war-making power, the government knew, far surpassed Japan's own. The tactical mastermind of the Pearl Harbor operation, Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, was one of them. Over the course of the summer of 1941, events slowly tilted Japan toward the possibility of war with the west. But Pearl Harbor was in no way inevitable. Germany's attack on the Soviet Union compelled Japan in July 1941 to prepare a plan of attack. Although it made clear Japan's desire to take advantage of the European conflict and gain a foothold in the European colonies in Southeast Asia, the plan was not clear about who constituted Japan's true enemy.
Japan's military thrust into Southeast Asia led President Franklin Delano Roosevelt's administration to impose sanctions. The US froze Japanese assets, an example followed by Britain and the Dutch East Indies. When Japan responded by taking over southern French Indochina, the US retaliated by imposing an embargo on oil exports to Japan. Rather than telling Japan that the US was determined to search for a diplomatic solution, America's categorical reaction confirmed it to the Japanese as an arrogant and conceited enemy. Moreover, by transferring its Pacific fleet from San Diego to Pearl Harbor, the US encouraged the Japanese understanding that the US fully anticipated war with Japan.
The Second World War in the Pacific finally came about for many different reasons. But it was, above all, the sense of encirclement and humiliation that united the deeply divided Japanese government. Feeling defeated by a series of failed approaches to the US, including an overture to hold direct talks with Roosevelt, Prime Minister Fumimaro Konoe resigned on October 16, making hard-line army minister Hideki Tōjō his successor.
[TOJO = That rings a bell ! probably from watching old WWII movies.]
The high-handed tone of the Hull Note of November 26, demanding Japan's withdrawal of all its troops from China, was a final blow to the moderates in Japan's government, who still hoped for diplomatic negotiations. By this time, many policymakers were convinced that the US was not ready to hear them out. It was ultimately in the name of saving Asia for all Asians from what was regarded as western arrogance that the government united to wage war. On December 1, it was decided that the war would commence in six days.”
And I saw the results of that decision yesterday here in Hiroshima.
At noon it looks like the rain has stopped so I get
dressed and decide to walk to the Shukkeien Gardens. Of course by the time I get downstairs, it is
raining again, but just a slight drizzle. No problem, I HAVE MY UMBRELLA ! and part of the way is under some covered walk
ways.
Vending machines are everywhere in Japan; almost every street corner has them. They sell water, pop, beer, tea, juice and sometimes ice cream !
I pass another covered shopping street, but I'm heading the other way
It is about a half hour walk north from the Oriental Hotel, along Hakushima Dori Avenue. By the time I arrive at the park it is pouring rain. Where was that park? I go down one of the small streets, which should be at the back of the park and sure enough, I can see it behind the buildings on the main street, but there is a sign indicating that this gate is closed, with a map showing how to get back to the main entrance. U-TURN ! Back a few blocks the way I came and there it is.
The street sign showing the turn for the park ! How could I have missed that ? The fact that it is in Japanese obviously did not help.
I make it into the Shukkeien Gardens and pay my fee to get in. It is a beautiful park, but it is very wet.
A beautiful stream runs through the first portion of the park
and then I reach the lake, and IT IS POURING RAIN.
Hélène.... I tried taking photos of rain drops, but I guess my camera just isn't powerful enough.
I’m starting to feel a bit down because of the rain when I spot a group taking formal wedding pictures in the garden.
OK, I have absolutely no reason to feel sorry for myself…. ♫♫♫ I’m singing in the rain ♫♫♫....
Well, humming actually since it is so peaceful. The gardens are lovely despite the rain and I spend about an hour walking along the small paths. The area is about 40,000 sq m.
A series of little bridges to get across the lake
The Kyobashi-gawa River flows beside the Shukkeien Gardens
Some areas only have stepping stones and I have to be careful because they are wet and slippery
And some areas have beautiful river rocks. Helene.... you would love Japan and its fondness for rocks.
“Construction of the gardens began in 1620 for Asano Nagaakira’s installation as Daimyo (Feudal Lord) of Hiroshima. Takuei Pond is in the center and the pathways form a circular path around it. Its name (literally shrink-scenery garden) expresses the idea of collecting and miniaturizing many scenic views. Around the circumference are mountains, valleys, bridges, tea cottages and arbors all skillfully arranged. In 1945, the garden was destroyed by the atom bomb. By 1951 it has been partially restored and is opened to the public.”
“A large number of survivors took refuge here immediately following the bombing, but died before receiving medical care. Their remains were interred within the garden.” Hopefully they have found eternal peace within this beautiful setting.
I'm half way around the lake, and each view provided a different perspective
Koko-kyo Bridge (Stradling rainbow bridge)
A wooden bridge in one of the coves
Beautiful reflections in the water of the lake
From there, it is just a short walk to the grounds of the
Hiroshima Castle, which was
originally built in 1589 at the delta of the Otagawa River (called Gokamura, or
Five Villages, at that time). It passed
through the hands of a number of Feudal Lords due to territorial wars. It was in the hands of the Asano family for
12 generations, for 250 years up to the
Meiji restoration. “Following the abolition of feudal domains and the establishment of
prefectures in 1871, the castle gradually came to serve more as a military
facility, where the Imperial Garden Headquarter came to be established during
the Sino-Japanese war of 1894/95. The
outer and middle moats were gradually filled in as the city of Hiroshima grew
around it, but the inner moat still exists.
On August 6, 1945, the castle (and everything within the moat area) was
destroyed by the atomic bomb blast. The
present tower was reconstructed in 1958 and is now used to exhibit historic
artifacts.” It obviously did not help that all
historical buildings were built of wood.
and of course there is a moat around it
There is nothing left of the buildings but a few stones in a field.
The rebuilt Castle Tower
I make my way to the rebuilt guard tower in the far north-west corner. It now houses a museum.
This is what Hiroshima Castle grounds looked like in the 1640's. With a series of three moats and the houses where the support staff lived in the surrounding areas.
Roof ornaments. These are usually fish. Why fish? Because they believed, somehow, that the "water" sign would ward off fires.
This is a museum picture of the Guard Tower before the bombing
A view from the top
Looking out over the grounds of the Castle
Great view of the city and the baseball dome
I will be going to this park when I leave the grounds
I head south through the grounds of the Hiroshima Castle and make my way to the southern gate.
I come across the grounds to a shrine that has been rebuilt. And an elegant statue of a horse at its gate.
Statue of a lion-dog guarding the shrine
The shrine is open, but I keep going towards the outer gates.
The walls surrounding the castle are still here. Some obviously rebuilt, others look like they've survived the bombing.
And I arrive at the last set of gates. It looks old because of the style, but it is all new construction
I’m about to exit the grounds when I decide to enter the last gate tower. What a great decision. All newly reconstructed, it still smells of cedar !
They have the architectural models of everything they have rebuilt in this section, all to scale
The inside of the long building is now a museum, but back then it was the living quarters for the guards.
All the rafters are visible. One of them is already cracked. I wonder if they will have to replace it?
This drum looks like it could be original wood (not the stand or the hides though). The drum was used to call out the hours.
Taking a peak outside the guard windows. It would have been easily protected in those days.
I finally exit the grounds and walk over the newly reconstructed bridge.
A great view of the reconstructed tower from here. I was on the top floor taking pictures of the park I am now standing in, less than an hour ago.
The statue in the middle of the park
The fountain in front of the Hiroshima Art Museum
I was thinking of visiting the Hiroshima Museum of Art, just across the street from the castle grounds, but it was 3:30 by then, I was tired and needed to give my legs and feet a rest, so I headed for the underground shopping area of Kamiya-cho, which I had discovered the day before. I found a nice little restaurant where they served a tasty vegetable quiche (it had roasted squash in it ! YUM). I finished off my meal with a cup of hot lemon tea and a small piece of chocolate cake; a tort really, nice and tart with rich chocolate.
I returned to the hotel using the covered shopping streets for most of the way. I’d been looking for a camera shop so that I could buy a spare battery for my new camera. OK, I’m in Japan! Where are the camera shops? Did not see even one, and I even went off the main streets I had previously walked and took some smaller side streets filled with shops. No camera shops anywhere!
Night view of Hiroshima from my bedroom window.
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