Tuesday 15 May 2012

May 10, Thursday

May 10, Thursday

I’m up really early this morning since I need to be at the “pick-up hotel” before 8 am.  I stop at a nearby Starbucks for a coffee and cinnamon bun before continuing to the Monterey Hotel.   Right on time, the tour agent arrives and whisks us away by cab to where the bus is waiting.  There were four other people at the Monterey, all from France, and I enjoy speaking French again;  it’s been awhile.
Our first stop is Nijo Castle “The castle was originally built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokygawa Shogun, Iemitsu. It is one of the finest examples of early Edo period and Momoyama culture in Japan.  In 1867, when Yoshinobu, the fifteenth Tokugawa Shogun returned sovereignty to the Emperor, the castle became the property of the Imperial family.”    Sorry, no photos allowed inside the palace, which consists of a series of 1 story buildings.  “The entire floor area of Ninomaru Palace is 3,300 square meters.  It has 33 rooms and over 800 tatami mats.  The superb wall paintings were done by prominent members of the Kano School.”

 Entering through the main gates of Nijo Castle grounds

 When we arrive at the main building of the palace, it is "shoes off" to walk on the extremely clean Tatami mats.    Unfortunately, no photos are allowed inside.

 Here is a map outlining the five buildings of the castle, all connected by indoor corridors.  The picture on the top right hand corner is of one of the wall paintings withing the castle

 Here is a photo of one of the main rooms; very historical

And a map of the grounds of Nijo Castle

 This is the main entrance to the palace, very elaborate roof structure

 and a close up of the carved wood image under the eaves of the entrance.

 The place is very busy, lots of school groups in addition to bus tours and other tourists

 We enter the gardens of the Castle.  The building in this picture would be the middle one.

 Zoom of the elaborate roof decorations.  Note that ALL OF IT IS MADE OF WOOD !

People peeking under the walkway to see how the Nightingale floor is made

Within the first sections of Ninomaru Castle, where guests were first received, the floors are designed to squeak; this is called the "Nightingale floor".  And amazingly, it does sound like birds as we walk down the corridors; one tourist actually asked where they hid the birds ! ! !  Obviously not a good listener.  This design was made to ensure that no one could sneak into the palace unnoticed.
 Into the gardens of the Nijo Castle

 
 
 This is the last building in the series, where the Shogun had his private rooms with "number 1 wife" and all his concubines.

 Looking under the walkway to see how the "nightingale" floors are made.  The metal brackets are what makes the floors squeak.

 Everyone else has a peak as well.

 Back out the way we came in

 A lion-dog on top of one of the roof eaves

 Out of the main gate, back to the street

 The moat and main walls surrounding the palace grounds

A look back at the main entrance to Nijo Castle

Our second stop this morning is Kinkaku “Golden Pavilion”; a Zen-Buddhist Temple containing relics of Buddha.  The building burned down in 1950 and an exact replica rebuilt in 1955; it is 12.5 meters high, “gold foil on lacquer covers the upper two levels and a shining phoenix stands on top of the shingled roof.  The name Kinkaku is derived from the gold leaf that the pavilion is covered in. The gold employed was to mitigate and purify any pollution or negative thoughts and feelings towards death. Other than the symbolic meaning behind the gold leaf, the Muromachi period heavily relied on visual excesses."  It was added on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1994.
Kinkaku “Golden Pavilion”
 Another of the buildings on the grounds around the pond.

 A golden phoenix on top of Kinkaku “Golden Pavilion”

 Irises around the pond area

 and a blue heron !   At least I think it's a blue heron.

 Here is a zoom of the same picture.

From the other side of the pond

 A small waterfall on the grounds of the temple

 One of the roof decorations

 Another shrine on top of the hill. 
 Lots of student groups travelling and all wear school uniforms. I’ve seen them everywhere throughout Kyoto and the train station; all very vocal ! but following their groups in a fairly orderly manner. Some groups are small, less than 10 students, while other groups are HUGE. Can’t help but remember Liz McCafferty and our High School bus trip to Florida, all the way from Smooth Rock Falls.
Three cheers for incredible teachers who had a positive impact on our lives!


 Inside the small shrine on top of the hill

 Coming back down the staircase towards the buses

 Another dog-lion on the roof, but this one seems to be doing some type of acrobatic act.

So many students from across Japan, here on school visits
Our third stop this morning is at the Kyoto Imperial Palace.  Security is tight here, we enter as a group and are followed by a guard the entire time.  Unfortunately, we only get to walk around the grounds and view the buildings from the courtyards.  Kind of a disappointment since this is a very historical site:  Capital of Japan between 794 and 1603.

 On the grounds of the Imperial Palace, every effort is made to save the trees by shoring up the branches.

 Within the first courtyard, looking at one of the original gates.

 Cute little guard area on the side

 The gates are actually less impressive that other sites I've visited;  I wonder why?

 A look up at the eves, and the thickness of bark used for the roof.

 A glimpse inside one of the open rooms, from outside.  The walls are delicately painted.

 These are the open rooms we get a glimpse into;  shojii screen doors everywhere

 Around the corner, we arrive at the Emperor's entrance to the palace rooms

 and then make our way to the gates of the Shrine.   Notice the bright orange colour?   It was meant to copy the red colour used at the time in China.  However whoever described it back then got it a bit wrong.  When the Chinese came to visit (at some point in history) they were horrified to see this orange colour.  But you will see from other pictures of sites I visited in Japan, the orange colour was used elsewhere at entrance gates to temples.

 A glimpse into the gates at the huge temple within.  At least I assume it is a temple !

 Sure looks like a temple !

Here is a sample showing us how the roofs were made of bark
Roofs are made of Japanese cypress bark and are about 1 foot thick.  They will last approximately 30 years before they need to be replaced.
The Imperial Palace:   “The official name in 794 was Heiankyo; the city measured approximately 5.3 km from north to south and approximately 4.5 km from east to west.  The Emperors who succeeded Emperor Kanmu held court at the Imperial Palace in Heiankyo, which served as both a political and cultural centre. The palace was rebuilt each time it was destroyed by fire.  While the Imperial Palace was being rebuilt, it was customary for the Emperor to move temporarily to the residences of the members of the aristocracy. (Nijo Castle)  In the late Heian period, the dairi (imperial palace) was not frequently used and the satodairi (temporary quarters) came to be used as the defacto Imperial Palace.  During this period, the dairi was destroyed time after time by fire and warfare.  It eventually fell into utter ruin, never to be rebuilt. In 1854 the Tokugawa Shogunate ordered than an Imperial Palace identical it its predecessor be immediately rebuilt, and the work was completed with exceptional speed by the following year.  This is the Palace that still stands today.” 
We then get a chance to walk through a small part of the gardens before heading off  again.

 A bridge over the pond

 The pond

 Another blue heron ? ! ! !   Wow, that's amazing.

 Back into the palace grounds to view the last of the buildings

 and some wall paintings visible within.  Beautiful work

 
The bus takes us to a downtown restaurant where we are treated to a nice Japanese lunch
And there was a little sign explaining what everything was.   Not much I could recognize, but it was really good.... except for that light green jelly stuff.

After lunch I have about ½ an hour before we leave so head just down the block to the Nishi-Horigami Temple for a quick visit.   It is a large site and I only get to see the first few buildings. 
 In front of the gates to Nishi-Horigami Temple

 One of the temple buildings

 A look inside the inner temple

 Very elaborately decorated in gold leaf

A huge bell hanging from the rafters between the two buildings
As I mount the steps to the main temple building, I obey the signs that indicate “shoes off” and carry them with me as I walk along the outside gallery of the temple.  The first building is open and I take pictures of the beautiful interior; unfortunately when I get to the second building all the doors are closed, but there is a round cut out in one of the doors possibly to slide them open.  I slide in my camera lens and take a picture of whatever is inside.  Bad girl, I know, but it was worth it…... check out the picture !
 Without the zoom

 With the zoom !

 Shoes back on, I walk over to the fountain, and find the usual dragon spouting water

 And there are the lion-dogs, garding the eaves of the roofs

 Another building has quite an elaborate top on it, which includes a dragon, a phoenix and a chrsysanthemum flower (depicting the imperial family).

 One of the eaves is adorned with a bell that chimes when the wind blows.   I actually purchased a miniature bell while I was in Tokyo (on my birthday) to use as a door chime when I start living in my mobile home on wheels!

I quickly walk back to the restaurant in time to catch the bus for the afternoon tour, but stop to take a picture of flowers that someone has placed on the sidewalk in front of their home.

In the afternoon we head for our first stop at the Heian-Jingu Shrine and gardens. 

 Driving over the Kamo River

 Kyoto city streets

 Houses along the river appear to be built one of top of the other.

 The streets around the Gion area, where the Geishas work

 We arrive at the Heian-Jingu Shrine and I stop at the fountain to take the picture of this little girl immitating others who are doing the hand washing ritual.

 The main gates into the Heian-Jingu Shrine

 The shrine is quite impressive.  One of the largest I've seen.

 One of the monks (or assistant) walking in the courtyard

A picture of the grounds as they looked historically.
We then enter the gardens and these are really worth the visit.  Beautifully designed and maintained.

 The pond area

 With beautiful irises, quite different from others I've seen today

 and the water lillies.

 We continue our walk around a small lake, toward a huge wooden bridge in the middle

 
 Some type of bush bearing fruit.  Holly ?

 I don't believe it !   Another Blue Heron !   Can't be the same one flying around the city; we've been from the north western side and now are south-east !

 Beautiful red maple among the green

And yet another bush with some type of berry on it.

 A view from the bridge to the other side of the lake

 An oak tree with its reddish helicopters !

 The blue heron is back and this time I get a close up shot of it.

 Back into the temple grounds and another water fountain

 From the inner courtyard, looking out through the main gates, I can see the Torii Gate in the distance.

Zoom of the torii gates.

Our second stop this afternoon is at the Sanjusangen-do Temple, just a block away from the Kyoto National Museum.
Kyoto National Museum
 the Sanjusangen-do Temple

 and its gardens

 The temple
Inside the temple are the 1001 statues of the Buddhist deity. Unfortunately no photos are allowed to show you this impressive display of life size statues.    There is also one giant seated statue, a “National Treasure” placed at the centre of the standing statues.  The statues are made of Japanese cypress.  124 of the standing statues were made in the 12th century when the temple was founded.  The other 876 were made in the 13th century when the temple was renovated.”  WOW !   “”The original temple building was lost to fire, but the building was reconstructed in 1266.  That structure remained unchanged for 700 years; since then 4 more renovations were done.  The long temple is about 120 meters long and made in the Wayo Japanese style. Architecture.  As there are 33 spaces between the columns, this temple came to be called Sanjunsangen-do” (hall with 33 spaces between the columns ! ! !)

 Photo taken from pictures on brochure.  The main Buddha.

 Some of the 1001 standing statues

 Thunder God & Wind God:   on either side of the temple hall (12th – 14thcentury). People worshiped these as deities and brought good harvests.

Two of the 28 guardian deities:    There were 28 other guardian deity statues in a straight line in front of the 1001 Kannon statues.  These deities are all from ancient Hindu culture.
Since the temple is so long, 120 meters long, archery contests were held in front of it, on the verandah. 
We continued our visit of the grounds

 more gardens

 More beautiful irises

And we leave the temple.   Can you tell I'm all templed out ? ! !
 
Our third and last stop today is to the Kiyomizudera Temple, which is on top of a hill on the eastern side of Kyoto. 
 As we drive to the last site

It is a 10 minute climb uphill on Kiyomizuzaka Street to the temple site.
 
 And the street is packed with students and other tourists

 We reach the top of the street and find the entrance gates to the Kiyomizudera Temple

 And we still have to go up, climbing another 5 minutes to reach the main temple building

Pagodas and other temple buildings on the way up
 The usual water fountain dragon

 A view from the temple balcony down to the water well below

 a zoom on the well and the people lining up to drink from the water coming from high up in the mountains

 Young girls dressed in their fancy kimonos

 The top level of the temple buildings

and the area for you to leave your prayers / wishes
 What the sign says

 From across the way, a look back at the main temple building balcony where I was taking pictures just a few minutes ago of the well below.

 Further down the path, for a better view of the main Kiyomizudera Temple

 and a fantastic view of Kyoto in the valley below

 Back towards the temple and the descent through the back way

 Down near the water well

 Along the path below the main temple.  This is the structure holding the entire balcony

 Almost back at the entrance gates

 And voila !   Full circle of the temple grounds

 Walking back down Kiyomizuzaka Street, looking into some of the shops along the way

 Japanese fans anyone ?

And more young girls wearing kimonos.  I wonder if there is a special occasion ?
Just before getting on the bus, I buy a "green tea" ice cream cone.  It's OK, I'm glad I tried it.  Won't buy another one however;  it's kind of bitter.


Back to the Tokyo station to drop off some passengers.   This is the back side of the station with its amazing architectural detail.

It’s been a long day and I’m glad to get back on the bus and get a ride back to my hotel… almost to the door step.What a nice bus driver;I was the last one off, along with the guide who was heading home using the metro station !

In Japan they differentiate between Temples (Buddhist) and Shrines (Shinto).   During the explanations about religious beliefs that the guide gives us, I realize that during the trip through India I referred to Buddhist Temples, but some may have been Hindu Temples.  I tried researching the difference, I jotted down a page full of notes…… and I’m still confused!   Other than the fact that Buddhism is an off-shoot of Hinduism (Siddhartha Gautama was a Hindu; when he found enlightenment he became known as Buddha, creating Buddhism.  Similarly to Jesus who was Jewish and became known as Christ, forming the Christian faith.)  They share many of the same basic beliefs:  compassion, non-violence, cause & effect, re-incarnation.   
Major differences: 
Hinduism:     1)  Have gods, the main ones being Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva….and there are about 330 million lesser gods !  YIKES,  no wonder I’m confused.   2) Re-incarnation means you are reborn to a higher cast system.  3) Wasn’t created by anyone in particular;  it is an individual approach.   They believe that Buddha is the last avatar of Lord Vishnu.

 Buddhism :  1) There is no god,  Everything is god.  2) Re-incarnation depends on Karma; the more enlightened you become the better your next life will be.  3)  Created by Siddhartha Gautama; monks live in monasteries.
The best explanations I found are shown on this U-Tube video; you can watch it if you are interested.  But I must tell you that I met a Hindu lady later on and she said the above wasn't quite right.   Oh well !   They appear to modify things to suit their beliefs, so I guess that's OK.    http://youtu.be/DxXP2BliN9A

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