Awake at 6 am for breakfast at 6:30 and 7 am departure. But we have a stop to make first at a local Masi village on the shores of Lake Manyara before heading out toward the Serengetti.

The ladies took their beaded collars off and placed them around our necks. Since I was the eldest Mama in my group, I got the very elaborate collars from the eldest women in the tribe; the elder who is due respect !



After the demonstration of fire starting, the men showed off their amazing high jumping skills. This is something traditional in the Masi culture and the one who can jump the highest is very skilled. In turn, the men in our group were invited to try jumping as well. Then the women Masi got the women in our group to imitate their dance: they make their beaded collars bounce simply by shrugging their shoulders. Unfortunately my beaded collar was weighed down by a hanging pendant which dangled all the way down to my knees so I was unable to make my collar bounce. The Masi women thought this was very funny and we all laughed. Only a few of the young Masi men could speak English and acted as interpreters. We were then honoured by being allowed to enter one of the Masi huts, which are traditionally built by the women of the tribe. It looks very crude however when you start looking at how the branches are arranged and tied together, especially the roof structure, it is a true work of engineering!


The Masi are a polygamist society so the men can have more than one wife. The interesting part is that wife number 1 gets to choose wife number 2; someone who is a hard worker and with whom she will get along well since they will be working together as a team to build the house, milk the cows and goats, fetch the water, cook the meals, etc. Wives #1 & 2 get to choose wife #3. The number of wives depends on how many cows and goats the man owns and whether he is able to take care of another family. Each wife has her own house however. The kids tend the herds while they graze. The men don’t seem to do much. They no longer hunt or eat wild life and their diet is restricted to the milk, blood and meat from their herds. They do eat some fruit, but no vegetables. The women and children also make beaded jewellery which they sell for additional income. Very poorly made but I bought some anyway to support their community.


We said goodbye to the villagers, got back into our vehicle and set off for the long drive to the Serengeti.



More vistas, as far as the eye can see
Just before lunch, we entered the Ngorongoro Crater National Park and got our first view of it from the rim. We will be going down into the crater on our last safari day.





Looking down into the crater / caldera


As soon as we had entered the park we started seeing animals. Our first herd of elephants.


The Masi are allowed to live within the park since they do not hunt the animals. They have their small village compounds and herds of cattle and goats.

Masi herds grazing in a huge valley








We stopped for lunch at the archaeological site of Olduvai Gorge where Mary & Louis Leakey discovered Lucy and where they worked for over 50 years. The gorge is about 30 miles long and the Masi word for it is “Oldupaai”. This is considered to be the “seat of humanity” since it is where the earliest known specimens of human genus “Homo Habilis” were found. I remember reading and hearing about “Lucy” and how, at the time, it stirred up the whole “Human Evolution Theory” again. Field work is still being carried out and archaeological finds continue to be made. This was originally the site of a large lake, but with seismic activity in the Great Rift Valley, the lake drained and the gorge was formed by diverting waters which cut into the sediment levels.
Olduvai Gorge with different colours based on the sediment level.

The museum contained a wealth of information, but we did not have enough time to read all the posters. I took some pictures of the huge posters so that I would be able to read the info later. Unfortunately, when I zoom in to the text it becomes illegible, so you may have to research the information on Mary & Louis Leakey’s work on the internet, just like I will have to do. The museum contained a cast of 3.6 million year old hominid footprints. “More hominid fossils have come from Bed 1 (lowest level of excavation – Dark green in picture below) than from any of the higher beds. The leg and foot bones recovered here show that Homo Habilis walked upright with a free-striding gait like that of modern humans; while the hand bones with opposable thumb and index finger indicate a precision grip.”


“The footprints clearly show that the big toe is in line with the rest of the foot. In this position it functions to push the foot off in walking. This contrasts with other primates, whose great toe is strongly angled away from the foot to act, much like a thumb, as a powerful grasping organ for climbing trees. The arch in the footprint only occurs in humans and works as a type of natural “shock-absorber” for the forces that result from all the weight being concentrated on a single supporting limb. The stride length can be measured from the distance between the individual prints. It is apparent that the hominids were taking short steps, which indicates slow, deliberate walking. Although it is not possible to determine the biological ages or gender of the makers of the footprints, the size of the prints (19-20 cm) is in agreement with the small stature estimated for the adult female skeleton, Lucy, of just over 1 meter tall. Other fossil evidence indicates that males were taller.” “Hominids left their footprints in the volcanic ash, dampened by rain. The ash preserved the prints well because it contained the mineral sodium carbonate, which cemented the ash on drying”.
Homo Erectus bones were found in Bed 2 (Blue in picture below). Beds 3 & 4 (burgundy) & Bed 5 (beige) are from more recent years.
“The Rift Valley, where the gorge is located, has many fault cuts as you can see from the picture above. The faults started to occur 1.5 million years ago and continue intermittently. The faulting that occurred 30,000 to 100,000 years ago caused subsidence between the first fault and the foot of Ngorongoro Crater to form the Olbalbal Depression. The depression accelerated erosion, allowing steams to cut Olduvai Gorge to its present depths of 45 to 90 meters deep.

The erosion uncovered some bones and the rest is history ! Bed 1 and Lower Bed 2 (1.7 – 2 million years ago) represent one of the most interesting periods at Olduvai, when there was an abundance of game and aquatic birds and two types of hominid (Australopithecus boisei and Homo habilis). Since 1989, new work on reconstructing ancient landscapes has been done by the Olduvai Landscape Paleoanthropology Project (OLAPP) based at Rutgers University in the USA. Investigations have added greatly to our understanding of the environment and its use by hominids.”
After this very informative stop, and our box lunch (which contained, among many other things, cooked chicken which had not been refrigerated since at least 6 am that morning ! No I did not eat it.) we got back in our vehicle and kept driving. By the way, we left the paved road at the park gates and are now on dirt roads.











Serengeti National Park is a world heritage site and recently proclaimed a 7th worldwide wonder of the world. It measures 14,763 sq km (5,700 sq miles). I was there during the breeding and birthing season, so there were lots of babies of all types running around. The migration had also begun towards the north to Kenya. The rains will arrive in March, so I made it just in time.
Our driver, Elias, is the tall, strong, silent type. He doesn’t say much, but every once in a while he will joke with us, with a very serious face. He is a very good driver and I feel very safe with him at the wheel. He was also good at spotting game out in the distance. Deo & Elias would see things out there that we would have completely missed; example: what looked like a twig on a distant tree was an antelope leg that a leopard had carried up to eat in peace.
Within a short time from entering the park, we started seeing lots of animals. Hartebeests, zebras, Masi giraffes (different pattern), elephants and….. the piece de résistance….. a leopard ! 

Also, check out their tails, it actually looks like they are braided because of the stripes.






After spending a lot of time watching the leopard we needed to hurry to get to the campsite before the sun went down, one of the rules of the Serengeti. We had a glimpse of hippos sitting deep in a pond beside the road before reaching our campsite.

Just as the sun was setting, we saw an elephant wandering by maybe 200 meters right in front of our tents.
The two nights we spent at this campsite coincided with the full moon.I tried to take a picture but it did not come out very well. My first night in the wilds of Africa, among all the animals wandering around the Serengeti. I made sure my port-a-potty was ready for action… just in case. I was still not pooping from my experience with the latte, which had completely emptied my bowels. It was getting VERY uncomfortable so it was a good thing I was alone in my tent since the gas production was non-stop when I was horizontal.
The camp helpers, at Deo’s instructions, had set up my tent so that it would be in the middle of the row and somewhat protected (psychologically, it did help) and I actually slept fairly well.
Lloyd said that when he got up to go to the bathroom at around 2 am, he met a giraffe chomping on a nearby tree. Stine said she thought she saw a hyena or a jackal at around 5 am when she walked to the washroom. There was NO WAY I WAS COMING OUT OF MY TENT AT NIGHT ! Even with my headlight.
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