March 17, Saturday
Setting a candle to float on the Sacred Ganga River. I opted not to do this since these were in tinfoil cups, not biodegradable, but hundreds of people set them afloat.
Sunrise on the Ganga
It was quite peaceful, despite all the people in the boats around us and the people on shore.
Varanasi awakening
This is a statue of a tiger on one of the terraces but I had to take a picture to show you the Zoom View
There is a monkey sitting on one of the vases, looking into the tiger's mouth !
We make our way in one direction, and then head back past our embarkation point to the area where bodies are cremated. We are not allowed to take pictures here, and it is probably a good thing. There is an old building maybe 80 feet from the building, between it and the water appears to be a large garbage heap, with some fires burning brightly, others reduced to embers. Thankfully there is no smell other than the one coming from the river. There are piles of wood stacked up beside the building; huge logs down to small twigs. Cows and dogs are rummaging through the garbage heaps. As we sit in front of this area, a body wrapped in white cloth is brought down on a make shift wooden and cloth stretcher. There are only four men accompanying the body and one other man who seems to be officiating. They look around for a few minutes and settle on a spot to place the body on the ground. We left at this point, just as they were placing a brightly coloured cloth on top of the body. Not anything like what I had pictured in my head: clean area on cement or on flat ground where everything was done with great ceremony.
We head back to the area where our boat was launched, but along the way, I spot the Hotel Alka. That’s the hotel I was supposed to stay at ! Right here with a beautiful view of the Gangas from the upper terrace. It looks like a nice hotel, so I am wondering why I was brought to the MM Continental Hotel instead. Kumar, my local contact, is going to have some explaining to do !
And this is the Hotel Alka..... (Light pink) SURPRISE, SURPRISE. It does exist. And this is where I was supposed to be staying ! On the shores of the Ganga River with an exceptional view of the ghats.
Monkeys playing in the branches.
We manage to relocate our taxi driver and take a few more pictures by the edge of the Ganga. When I ask the driver why people wash in dirty water he looks at me, very insulted, and explains that the tides come in and take the garbage away. OK ! ! !
Did you notice there are no buildings on the eastern side of the river?
People are still arriving, Indians and tourists. 
On the way out I notice that some of the stands sell flower candels that are in "leaf" cups. At least these are biodegradable.
Back through the downtown area of Varanasi
We return to the car and head for a series of temples throughout the city.
Ladies making offerings to a "sacred cow" statue
Quite ornately decorated. Looks like a cake !
Swastika image: “ The swastika is an ancient symbol that has been used for over 3,000 years. (That even predates the ancient Egyptian symbol, the Ankh!) Artifacts such as pottery and coins from ancient Troy show that the swastika was a commonly used symbol as far back as 1000 BCE." "During the following thousand years, the image of the swastika was used by many cultures around the world, including in China, Japan, India, and southern Europe. By the Middle Ages, the swastika was a well known, if not commonly used, symbol but was called by many different names: China – wan, England - fylfot, Germany - Hakenkreuz, Greece - tetraskelion and gammadion, India – swastika. Though it is not known for exactly how long, Native Americans also have long used the symbol of the swastika. The word "swastika" comes from the Sanskrit svastika - "su" meaning "good," "asti" meaning "to be," and "ka" as a suffix. Until the Nazis used this symbol, the swastika was used by many cultures throughout the past 3,000 years to represent life, sun, power, strength, and good luck.” I DID NOT KNOW THAT!
This beautiful statue was tucked away and I almost missted it, just as we were exiting.
And this one was just outside the gate.
From there, we made our way to the Durga Temple, 18th Century Nagara Style, Painted in Red Ochre. We were not allowed to take pictures there, but our driver stopped after we came out, so that we could take this picture of the temple.
Durga Temple
We then stopped at the "Mother India" Temple
This is different, a painted design on the entrance stones
and a map of india in relief inside.
And we take a drive through the University Campus (18 square kms !)
Talk about clean streets ! No garbage in sight, and no Holy Cows.
And every building on campus has the same architectural style and colours.
By 9:30 am we are back at the hotel for breakfast. The two young Japanese women and I have a great time trying to communicate while we eat our Indian style breakfast which consisted of some flat puffed up bread and a mixture of vegetables in a curry sauce. I have black coffee, they have chai. Why am I not drinking chai you ask? Because it is sickeningly sweet ! If I could have a cup without the sugar I might be able to enjoy it because the cardamom flavour is very nice; but the tea is brewed and prepared in bulk containers.
I have been able to deduce that it is because the Japanese girls he is also escorting were staying at this hotel, and it was simply easier for him to have us all together in the same hotel. When he sees the expression on my face, he says that he has spoken to Kumar in Delhi, and that he had OK’d it. After which he promptly took out his blackberry (or equivalent) and texted a message I am sure was addressed to the Delhi office. I’m still not amused !
It is now 1:30 and I still haven’t heard back from Kumar about my flight ticket back to Delhi for tomorrow. While I was checking my security pouch (where I keep credit cards and passport) I noticed that I did not have my passport. They had taken it when I checked in, to complete the paperwork, had given me my room key and promised to bring up my passport, but never had. Back down to the lobby where they first say they do not have it; then the guy starts emptying a drawer where he has piles and piles of small papers (I’d hate to be their bookkeeper !) and after a few minutes, he locates my passport. So sorry ! and he apologized profusely for the error. “No problem” I say, smiling “I have it now.”
I also ask about Kumar and my flight ticket for tomorrow, and the manager/desk clerk promises to call me when Kumar returns to the hotel. I’m also supposed to go back to the Ganga tonight, according to the Japanese Girls, to see some type of ceremony. Haven’t seen an ATM machine from a bank I can use yet, so hopefully won’t be expected to pay for anything requiring more than 1500 rupees (about $30).
At 3 pm I get a call from the lobby saying that the driver was there to pick me up. Supposedly I am to make my own flight reservations and he is there to drive me to a travel agency. OK ! ! ! Why didn’t he do this yesterday morning when I first arrived ! ! ! Got to the travel agency to find out that in fact there were NO flights available on Sunday, I would have to wait until Monday at noon for my flight to Delhi. #(%&$(Q_%&$&!!!!! You can insert the F word as many times as you want. I WAS FLIPPING MAD.
When the driver brings we back to the hotel, he informs we that we leave in 15 minutes to visit some Buddhist temples. So a quick change of shoes and off we go to Sarnath, 13 km outside of Varanasi.
This is the “Birthplace of Buddhism” according to a sign I saw in one of the sites. The Internet confirms that this is “The site where Buddha gave his first sermon and thereby founded Buddhism” Unfortunately I don’t get to go to visit the actual archeological site, which I would have LOVED, but we visit many temples as well as the Sarnath Museum.
Tibetan Buddhist Temple
Dalai Lama !
Japanese Buddhist Temple
Another temple next door
Chinese Buddhist Temple
A wheel of Dharma
Now that's a happy Buddha
Mulagandha Kuty Vihara Temple
And check out what happened while I was there
Buddhist monks circling and chanting around the Dhamekh Stupa
Sridigamber Jain Temple
Artist at work on a mural
Wat Thai Sarnath
80 feet tall Standing Buddha - new 2007
Wheel of Dharma
All afternoon I’ve been fuming about the flight situation and the fact that I want to find a NICE hotel for my last night in Varanasi. On our way back to the hotel, I get the driver to stop off at a few places to check on availability and prices. I am referred to the Clarks Hotel, a very short walk from the MM Continental. The clerk there tells me that they have no availability, but he takes pity on my situation and tells me to check with him again tomorrow morning. On the way back to the hotel, the driver catches up with me and tells me that the local rep is on the line (driver’s cell phone) and wants to talk to me. He is wondering why I am trying to book a hotel. I tell him about the flight delay, that I should have been taken to the travel agency on Friday when I arrived since I had to make my own arrangements after all, and that I wanted to spend the last night in a NICE hotel ! He told me he would take care of it. I responded by telling him that I could no longer depend on him for this since his idea of Nice, and my idea of Nice was QUITE DIFFERENT. He told me he would be by the hotel at 10 pm tonight to talk to me. I asked him: At WHAT TIME? He then said he would be there in half an hour (6:30).
WHAT A DAY THIS HAS BEEN !
Varanasi:
Got up at 5:10 this morning for our 5:30 departure to go on a "sunrise" boat ride on the Ganga (Ganges is English). I am in a taxi with 2 young Japanese women who are travelling for 2 weeks in India. Conversation is limited since they don’t speak much English and we have no other language in common. After a 20 minute drive through downtown Varanasi, we leave the car and walk the rest of the way to get to the river. There are hundreds of tourists heading in the same direction, as well as Hindus heading to the river to wash.
It is getting light, but the sun is not up yet. People arriving at the ghats to bathe (Indians) and hundreds of tourists to get on the boats, or just look. Homeless locals are still asleep.
Getting into a small boat, we are 8 people, including the man rowing.
Bathers in the Ganga
Our taxi driver locates a boat for us and we embark with a young Japanese couple and their guide, who speaks Japanese and explains a few things about the Ganga and its rituals. No one thought of providing me with an English speaking guide, so I just take in the sights. The water appears to be filthy, there is garbage floating all around the edges, but people are still washing in it, as well as washing their clothes. Some of them even go in for a bit of a swim. Makes me shudder.
It is getting light, but the sun is not up yet. People arriving at the ghats to bathe (Indians) and hundreds of tourists to get on the boats, or just look. Homeless locals are still asleep.
Getting into a small boat, we are 8 people, including the man rowing.
Bathers in the Ganga
Our taxi driver locates a boat for us and we embark with a young Japanese couple and their guide, who speaks Japanese and explains a few things about the Ganga and its rituals. No one thought of providing me with an English speaking guide, so I just take in the sights. The water appears to be filthy, there is garbage floating all around the edges, but people are still washing in it, as well as washing their clothes. Some of them even go in for a bit of a swim. Makes me shudder.
Setting a candle to float on the Sacred Ganga River. I opted not to do this since these were in tinfoil cups, not biodegradable, but hundreds of people set them afloat.
Sunrise on the Ganga
It was quite peaceful, despite all the people in the boats around us and the people on shore.
Varanasi awakening
This is a statue of a tiger on one of the terraces but I had to take a picture to show you the Zoom View
There is a monkey sitting on one of the vases, looking into the tiger's mouth !
We make our way in one direction, and then head back past our embarkation point to the area where bodies are cremated. We are not allowed to take pictures here, and it is probably a good thing. There is an old building maybe 80 feet from the building, between it and the water appears to be a large garbage heap, with some fires burning brightly, others reduced to embers. Thankfully there is no smell other than the one coming from the river. There are piles of wood stacked up beside the building; huge logs down to small twigs. Cows and dogs are rummaging through the garbage heaps. As we sit in front of this area, a body wrapped in white cloth is brought down on a make shift wooden and cloth stretcher. There are only four men accompanying the body and one other man who seems to be officiating. They look around for a few minutes and settle on a spot to place the body on the ground. We left at this point, just as they were placing a brightly coloured cloth on top of the body. Not anything like what I had pictured in my head: clean area on cement or on flat ground where everything was done with great ceremony.
We head back to the area where our boat was launched, but along the way, I spot the Hotel Alka. That’s the hotel I was supposed to stay at ! Right here with a beautiful view of the Gangas from the upper terrace. It looks like a nice hotel, so I am wondering why I was brought to the MM Continental Hotel instead. Kumar, my local contact, is going to have some explaining to do !
And this is the Hotel Alka..... (Light pink) SURPRISE, SURPRISE. It does exist. And this is where I was supposed to be staying ! On the shores of the Ganga River with an exceptional view of the ghats.
Monkeys playing in the branches.
We manage to relocate our taxi driver and take a few more pictures by the edge of the Ganga. When I ask the driver why people wash in dirty water he looks at me, very insulted, and explains that the tides come in and take the garbage away. OK ! ! !
Did you notice there are no buildings on the eastern side of the river?
People are still arriving, Indians and tourists.
On the way out I notice that some of the stands sell flower candels that are in "leaf" cups. At least these are biodegradable.
Back through the downtown area of Varanasi
We return to the car and head for a series of temples throughout the city.
Varanasi: “A city that embodies the spiritual soul of India, and whose beginnings over 2,500 years ago are steeped in Hindu mythology. A city that is the cosmic center of the Universe according to Hindu belief and where the Ganges, or "Mother Ganga", India's holiest river, flows.” “Known formerly as Kashi or Benares, this ancient city on the banks of the river Ganga, is one of the holiest cities in India. Varanasi gets its name from the two tributaries of the Ganga, Varuna and Assi, between which it is situated. This enchanting city is said to have been founded by Lord Shiva. Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world and the most important pilgrimage site in India. With its array of shrines, temples and palaces rising in several tiers from the water’s edge, it is one of the most picturesque cities in the east. The main attraction here are the Ghats (wide stairways, descending from the buildings down to the water’s edge), each with its own significance. Since the sixth century BC, this city has been a centre of learning and the tradition has been kept alive in a continuous tradition.”
Our early morning tour is not over however, our driver takes us around to see a bit of the city as well as a few temples.
Shree Vishwanath Mandir TempleOur early morning tour is not over however, our driver takes us around to see a bit of the city as well as a few temples.
Ladies making offerings to a "sacred cow" statue
Quite ornately decorated. Looks like a cake !
Swastika image: “ The swastika is an ancient symbol that has been used for over 3,000 years. (That even predates the ancient Egyptian symbol, the Ankh!) Artifacts such as pottery and coins from ancient Troy show that the swastika was a commonly used symbol as far back as 1000 BCE." "During the following thousand years, the image of the swastika was used by many cultures around the world, including in China, Japan, India, and southern Europe. By the Middle Ages, the swastika was a well known, if not commonly used, symbol but was called by many different names: China – wan, England - fylfot, Germany - Hakenkreuz, Greece - tetraskelion and gammadion, India – swastika. Though it is not known for exactly how long, Native Americans also have long used the symbol of the swastika. The word "swastika" comes from the Sanskrit svastika - "su" meaning "good," "asti" meaning "to be," and "ka" as a suffix. Until the Nazis used this symbol, the swastika was used by many cultures throughout the past 3,000 years to represent life, sun, power, strength, and good luck.” I DID NOT KNOW THAT!
This beautiful statue was tucked away and I almost missted it, just as we were exiting.
And this one was just outside the gate.
From there, we made our way to the Durga Temple, 18th Century Nagara Style, Painted in Red Ochre. We were not allowed to take pictures there, but our driver stopped after we came out, so that we could take this picture of the temple.
Durga Temple
We then stopped at the "Mother India" Temple
This is different, a painted design on the entrance stones
and a map of india in relief inside.
And we take a drive through the University Campus (18 square kms !)
Talk about clean streets ! No garbage in sight, and no Holy Cows.
And every building on campus has the same architectural style and colours.
By 9:30 am we are back at the hotel for breakfast. The two young Japanese women and I have a great time trying to communicate while we eat our Indian style breakfast which consisted of some flat puffed up bread and a mixture of vegetables in a curry sauce. I have black coffee, they have chai. Why am I not drinking chai you ask? Because it is sickeningly sweet ! If I could have a cup without the sugar I might be able to enjoy it because the cardamom flavour is very nice; but the tea is brewed and prepared in bulk containers.
After breakfast the girls head to their room to pack for their flight to Delhi and I go to my room to freshen up. I decide to take my laptop down to the lobby to connect to their wifi. First problem is that they don’t have any plug-ins available; when I say that I can use it on the battery, they finally admit that they don’t have wifi ! #*%&$)@% ! ! ! !
Kumar happens to be in the lobby so I discuss a few things with him (when are we booking my flight to Delhi) and then offhandedly remark that I saw the Alka Hotel where I was supposed to stay, right beside the Gangas. I want to see how he will react. He first says that the MM Continental is better. When I explain that I paid extra for my trip so that I would be staying in “nice” hotels, and this one didn’t qualify as nice, he said that it was because it was difficult to access the other hotel by road. YA ! ! ! RIGHT ! ! ! I have been able to deduce that it is because the Japanese girls he is also escorting were staying at this hotel, and it was simply easier for him to have us all together in the same hotel. When he sees the expression on my face, he says that he has spoken to Kumar in Delhi, and that he had OK’d it. After which he promptly took out his blackberry (or equivalent) and texted a message I am sure was addressed to the Delhi office. I’m still not amused !
It is now 1:30 and I still haven’t heard back from Kumar about my flight ticket back to Delhi for tomorrow. While I was checking my security pouch (where I keep credit cards and passport) I noticed that I did not have my passport. They had taken it when I checked in, to complete the paperwork, had given me my room key and promised to bring up my passport, but never had. Back down to the lobby where they first say they do not have it; then the guy starts emptying a drawer where he has piles and piles of small papers (I’d hate to be their bookkeeper !) and after a few minutes, he locates my passport. So sorry ! and he apologized profusely for the error. “No problem” I say, smiling “I have it now.”
I also ask about Kumar and my flight ticket for tomorrow, and the manager/desk clerk promises to call me when Kumar returns to the hotel. I’m also supposed to go back to the Ganga tonight, according to the Japanese Girls, to see some type of ceremony. Haven’t seen an ATM machine from a bank I can use yet, so hopefully won’t be expected to pay for anything requiring more than 1500 rupees (about $30).
At 3 pm I get a call from the lobby saying that the driver was there to pick me up. Supposedly I am to make my own flight reservations and he is there to drive me to a travel agency. OK ! ! ! Why didn’t he do this yesterday morning when I first arrived ! ! ! Got to the travel agency to find out that in fact there were NO flights available on Sunday, I would have to wait until Monday at noon for my flight to Delhi. #(%&$(Q_%&$&!!!!! You can insert the F word as many times as you want. I WAS FLIPPING MAD.
When the driver brings we back to the hotel, he informs we that we leave in 15 minutes to visit some Buddhist temples. So a quick change of shoes and off we go to Sarnath, 13 km outside of Varanasi.
This is the “Birthplace of Buddhism” according to a sign I saw in one of the sites. The Internet confirms that this is “The site where Buddha gave his first sermon and thereby founded Buddhism” Unfortunately I don’t get to go to visit the actual archeological site, which I would have LOVED, but we visit many temples as well as the Sarnath Museum.
Tibetan Buddhist Temple
Dalai Lama !
Japanese Buddhist Temple
Another temple next door
Chinese Buddhist Temple
A wheel of Dharma
Now that's a happy Buddha
Mulagandha Kuty Vihara Temple
And check out what happened while I was there
Buddhist monks circling and chanting around the Dhamekh Stupa
Sridigamber Jain Temple
Artist at work on a mural
Wat Thai Sarnath
80 feet tall Standing Buddha - new 2007
Wheel of Dharma
All afternoon I’ve been fuming about the flight situation and the fact that I want to find a NICE hotel for my last night in Varanasi. On our way back to the hotel, I get the driver to stop off at a few places to check on availability and prices. I am referred to the Clarks Hotel, a very short walk from the MM Continental. The clerk there tells me that they have no availability, but he takes pity on my situation and tells me to check with him again tomorrow morning. On the way back to the hotel, the driver catches up with me and tells me that the local rep is on the line (driver’s cell phone) and wants to talk to me. He is wondering why I am trying to book a hotel. I tell him about the flight delay, that I should have been taken to the travel agency on Friday when I arrived since I had to make my own arrangements after all, and that I wanted to spend the last night in a NICE hotel ! He told me he would take care of it. I responded by telling him that I could no longer depend on him for this since his idea of Nice, and my idea of Nice was QUITE DIFFERENT. He told me he would be by the hotel at 10 pm tonight to talk to me. I asked him: At WHAT TIME? He then said he would be there in half an hour (6:30).
At 6:45 I was ready to ……. But he finally showed up. He got on the phone with someone, and booked me a hotel room. I wanted a guarantee from him that it was a NICE hotel according to MY standards, and he assured me that it was and that it was a new hotel and it had free wifi. I told him that if I was not satisfied with what I saw, I would not be happy…. And I left it at that.
By this time I was starving, it was past 7:30 and I had not eaten since breakfast at 9:30 that morning. Had a nice Indian meal (that’s all that’s available on the menu) Butter Chicken, Rice biryani (Basmati with vegetables) and added some buttered naan to soothe my soul. Just knowing that I only had one more night to spend in the dump helped me go to sleep.WHAT A DAY THIS HAS BEEN !
PS - Never heard a word about the evening excursion.
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