March 12, Monday
We leave Agra at 8:30 and head for Orchha, 250 km away. Before we arrive at Gwalior, we leave the 4 lane divided highway and end up on a 2-lane. The traffic was heavy and dangerous. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone use their turn signals while I've been here; not to pass or to turn. Many of them don’t have side mirrors on their motorcycles or on their huge trucks. They don’t seem to look behind them when they switch lanes; they just change lanes and if someone happens to be beside them, then they had better give way. I’m thinking that in every province, people immigrating to Canada from certain countries should have to pass not only the written test, but also the driving test before they are licensed to drive in Canada. I was told by one guide that the driving rules in India are pretty much the same as in Canada (except for driving on the other side of the road) but that no one obeys these laws. I didn’t see any police officers stopping people for bad driving; there were road blocks at certain times, but mainly to ensure that the driver had paid the toll. The only time a saw a police officer, he was screaming at a truck driver who was completely blocking the road in one city we were crossing.
I’ve been trying to figure out if there is any code to the car honking: 1 beep, 2, 3 or just one long blast, but there doesn’t seem to be, it all depends on the driver’s level of patience. Since no one uses the inner lane as a fast lane, they pass each other either on the left or the right side.
Moving day ! Any type of vehicle will do, and you can give rides to others at the same time
Very inventive people; check out what this guy as rigged up for his bicycle
The stacks along the road are "poop pies". I've seen women making them beside their homes. It's a mixture of cow poop, green grass (or other left over greens) or sometimes straw. They lay them out to let them dry then pile them up in various forms. In other regions I've seen them just as a flat disk the size of a dinner plate, but here they are in the shape of a half moon, thick at the flat base thining out in the half circle. After they have dried they make this big circle so that the air can circulate in the middle.
On the back of most trucks it actually asks drivers to honk to let them know a car is behind them and wants to pass. It also says "Use dipper at night" (dimmer on their head lights).
And yet another overturned transport truck on the side of the road. The way everyone drives its amazing we didn't see more accidents !
Huge river with train trellis bridge beside the road bridge.
Some men having a chat on the side of the road. New bridge being prepared in the background.
Road conditions got really bad today
More wheat fields
The road signs are now only in Hindi
People riding ON TOP OFABUS! Along with some big pipes.
And of course they ever present "sacred cows" wandering around everywhere
A building is going up: basic red brick construction, covered with white marble (or possibly some other type of white cladding). Just like the Taj Mahal and most other buildings around here; the base is always made of ordinary red bricks.
Add some bougainvilla and any house looks nice. This house's architecture looked surprisingly like something we would find in Canada or the USA.
This one surprised me ! In a town called Jhansi.
Check out this lady's beautiful sari. So many of them are exceptionaly beautiful
My room at the Hotel Bundelkand Riverside; very "Indian" in style with beautiful wooden furniture
The balcony / patio at the back of my room. Great view of the river.
The armoir in my room had carved wooden panels that you could see through; pretty, and air conditioned.
Orchha: I had not asked to have Orchha on my excursion, so I had to ask Neema if it was worth a day to visit instead of spending an extra day in Agra, but he said YES ! So here I am, wondering what all the fuss is about. “Orchha is a small hidden gem in the state of Madhya Pradesh which most people have never heard of. It was founded in 1501 and became the second capital city of Bundelas, flourishing early in the 17th century."
Neema drives me into town and drops me off in the market area. It is only a short walk across the bridge to visit the Fort and Palace.
Jhansi Fort &
Main inside courtyard of the Palace. Middle was a water fountain
One of the "passerels" with partial jali windows (Jalousie or Laticed)
"Term for a perforated stone or latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry. Early work was performed by carving into stone, while the later more elegant used by the Mughals employed the technique of inlay, using marble and semi-precious stones. Jali typically use Islamic geometric patterns, and less often arabesques." "La jalousie, désigne un système de volets orientables permettant aux personnes situées à l'intérieur de la maison d'observer presque sans être vu."
View of the external walls of the Palace
A view of Orchha from one of the balconies
Raja Mahal: "Palace dedicated to a legendary female dancer and located within the grounds of Jehangir Mahal. Started in 1531 and completed in 1539."
This little gem was spectacular, a real fairy tale castle, probably due to its later construction, and few visitors (compared to Agra) the wall and ceiling paintings are still in great condition.
The white marble in the inside courtyard is elaborately carved
From one courtyard to the other.
The second courtyard and "fairy tale" palace. An architectural wonder of various types of arches.
On an outer wall, a "slanted" window, designed and angled to catch the breezes.
Painted walls and ceilings still beautiful
Just amazing artwork, combination of painting and inlaid marble
Details of the carved marble on some of the walls of the courtyard.
I left the Palace and Fort heading to the market and main temple area.
From the bridge, looking through one of the cut-outs.
Check out what was just standing calmly on the bridge: big brahma bull. I just walked by and it never moved.
The market area
Another one. I just stopped where I was and let it walk right by me. It couldn't have cared less.
Another visitor to the market area. It should watch out because they were also selling goat meat !
Chaturbhuj Temple: "Built in the year 875, during the reign of imperial Gurjara Pratihara dynasty, it is constructed within a later colonnade. The temple consists of a sanctum with pancha-ratha Shikhara, a vestibule and a porch. The temple also has a curved tower with a small porch. It is of particular significance in human history as on its walls is the first recorded use of the symbol '0'."
Side view from the market area
Front view from the street. It is HUGE and I decide not to go in. I'm don't think I want to wander through there in bare feet. (shudder!)
Chhataris (cenotaphs near the river Betwa) Samadhis of Bundel Kings and their families. Built in a typical variation of a tomb. On the side of the Betwa river
Chhataris (cenotaphs) These are huge compared to those I've seen elsewhere; 3 stories high
And the river Betwa just beside them.
My "one and only" picture of Neema with the car that took me around Northern India.
Back at the car, Neema drives me to a few other sites in the small town. Then it is back to the Bundelkhand where I have time to relax in one of the day beds on the lawn and read. So nice to be able to relax outdoors. But we are near the river and the mosquitoes find me very quickly. Despite the deet, they still bite !
My visit on the Bundelkhand Hotel's roof top garden
A view of the Betwa River from the roof top garden
A river of the inner courtyard gardens from the roof of the Bundelkhand Hotel. The areas that show as yellow between the red sandstone pillars is the outer hallway and are all the hotel rooms. It was a spectacular setting.
This photo would have been for Mom. Can you imagine sitting by this window to sew, surrounded by all the lovely bougainvilla?
We leave Agra at 8:30 and head for Orchha, 250 km away. Before we arrive at Gwalior, we leave the 4 lane divided highway and end up on a 2-lane. The traffic was heavy and dangerous. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone use their turn signals while I've been here; not to pass or to turn. Many of them don’t have side mirrors on their motorcycles or on their huge trucks. They don’t seem to look behind them when they switch lanes; they just change lanes and if someone happens to be beside them, then they had better give way. I’m thinking that in every province, people immigrating to Canada from certain countries should have to pass not only the written test, but also the driving test before they are licensed to drive in Canada. I was told by one guide that the driving rules in India are pretty much the same as in Canada (except for driving on the other side of the road) but that no one obeys these laws. I didn’t see any police officers stopping people for bad driving; there were road blocks at certain times, but mainly to ensure that the driver had paid the toll. The only time a saw a police officer, he was screaming at a truck driver who was completely blocking the road in one city we were crossing.
I’ve been trying to figure out if there is any code to the car honking: 1 beep, 2, 3 or just one long blast, but there doesn’t seem to be, it all depends on the driver’s level of patience. Since no one uses the inner lane as a fast lane, they pass each other either on the left or the right side.
Moving day ! Any type of vehicle will do, and you can give rides to others at the same time
Very inventive people; check out what this guy as rigged up for his bicycle
The stacks along the road are "poop pies". I've seen women making them beside their homes. It's a mixture of cow poop, green grass (or other left over greens) or sometimes straw. They lay them out to let them dry then pile them up in various forms. In other regions I've seen them just as a flat disk the size of a dinner plate, but here they are in the shape of a half moon, thick at the flat base thining out in the half circle. After they have dried they make this big circle so that the air can circulate in the middle. On the back of most trucks it actually asks drivers to honk to let them know a car is behind them and wants to pass. It also says "Use dipper at night" (dimmer on their head lights).
And yet another overturned transport truck on the side of the road. The way everyone drives its amazing we didn't see more accidents !
Huge river with train trellis bridge beside the road bridge.
Some men having a chat on the side of the road. New bridge being prepared in the background.
Road conditions got really bad today
More wheat fields
The road signs are now only in Hindi
People riding ON TOP OFABUS! Along with some big pipes.
And of course they ever present "sacred cows" wandering around everywhere
A building is going up: basic red brick construction, covered with white marble (or possibly some other type of white cladding). Just like the Taj Mahal and most other buildings around here; the base is always made of ordinary red bricks.
Add some bougainvilla and any house looks nice. This house's architecture looked surprisingly like something we would find in Canada or the USA.
This one surprised me ! In a town called Jhansi.
Check out this lady's beautiful sari. So many of them are exceptionaly beautiful
My room at the Hotel Bundelkand Riverside; very "Indian" in style with beautiful wooden furniture
The balcony / patio at the back of my room. Great view of the river.
The armoir in my room had carved wooden panels that you could see through; pretty, and air conditioned.
Orchha: I had not asked to have Orchha on my excursion, so I had to ask Neema if it was worth a day to visit instead of spending an extra day in Agra, but he said YES ! So here I am, wondering what all the fuss is about. “Orchha is a small hidden gem in the state of Madhya Pradesh which most people have never heard of. It was founded in 1501 and became the second capital city of Bundelas, flourishing early in the 17th century."
Neema drives me into town and drops me off in the market area. It is only a short walk across the bridge to visit the Fort and Palace.
Jhansi Fort &
Main inside courtyard of the Palace. Middle was a water fountain
One of the "passerels" with partial jali windows (Jalousie or Laticed)
"Term for a perforated stone or latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy and geometry. Early work was performed by carving into stone, while the later more elegant used by the Mughals employed the technique of inlay, using marble and semi-precious stones. Jali typically use Islamic geometric patterns, and less often arabesques." "La jalousie, désigne un système de volets orientables permettant aux personnes situées à l'intérieur de la maison d'observer presque sans être vu."
View of the external walls of the Palace
Raja Mahal: "Palace dedicated to a legendary female dancer and located within the grounds of Jehangir Mahal. Started in 1531 and completed in 1539."
This little gem was spectacular, a real fairy tale castle, probably due to its later construction, and few visitors (compared to Agra) the wall and ceiling paintings are still in great condition.
The white marble in the inside courtyard is elaborately carved
From one courtyard to the other.
The second courtyard and "fairy tale" palace. An architectural wonder of various types of arches.
On an outer wall, a "slanted" window, designed and angled to catch the breezes.
Painted walls and ceilings still beautiful
Just amazing artwork, combination of painting and inlaid marble
Details of the carved marble on some of the walls of the courtyard.
I left the Palace and Fort heading to the market and main temple area.
From the bridge, looking through one of the cut-outs.
Check out what was just standing calmly on the bridge: big brahma bull. I just walked by and it never moved.
The market area
Another one. I just stopped where I was and let it walk right by me. It couldn't have cared less.
Another visitor to the market area. It should watch out because they were also selling goat meat !
Chaturbhuj Temple: "Built in the year 875, during the reign of imperial Gurjara Pratihara dynasty, it is constructed within a later colonnade. The temple consists of a sanctum with pancha-ratha Shikhara, a vestibule and a porch. The temple also has a curved tower with a small porch. It is of particular significance in human history as on its walls is the first recorded use of the symbol '0'."
Side view from the market area
Front view from the street. It is HUGE and I decide not to go in. I'm don't think I want to wander through there in bare feet. (shudder!)
Chhataris (cenotaphs near the river Betwa) Samadhis of Bundel Kings and their families. Built in a typical variation of a tomb. On the side of the Betwa river
Chhataris (cenotaphs) These are huge compared to those I've seen elsewhere; 3 stories high
And the river Betwa just beside them.
My "one and only" picture of Neema with the car that took me around Northern India.
Back at the car, Neema drives me to a few other sites in the small town. Then it is back to the Bundelkhand where I have time to relax in one of the day beds on the lawn and read. So nice to be able to relax outdoors. But we are near the river and the mosquitoes find me very quickly. Despite the deet, they still bite !
My visit on the Bundelkhand Hotel's roof top garden
A view of the Betwa River from the roof top garden
A river of the inner courtyard gardens from the roof of the Bundelkhand Hotel. The areas that show as yellow between the red sandstone pillars is the outer hallway and are all the hotel rooms. It was a spectacular setting.
This photo would have been for Mom. Can you imagine sitting by this window to sew, surrounded by all the lovely bougainvilla?
Dinner was a very nice buffet and I tried a small bit of everything to determine how spicy each dish was, then went back to the dishes I liked best for a bigger portion. Enjoyed a nice glass of wine with my meal but ended up paying the equivalent of $10 for it; for a very small glass of wine ! I then heard the waiter offer the couple seated next to me the price of a bottle of wine…. $40. I haven’t seen any bottles costing that much here, so it must be imported. Yes, it was very tasty.
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