March 15, Thursday & March 16, Friday
My train was not scheduled to leave until 7 pm, so I had a 5 hour wait at the station. I told Neema there was no need for him to wait with me, so that he could take advantage of the daylight to start his drive back to Delhi. He made arrangements for a porter to help me into the station, and into the correct train and carriage when it arrived. I gave him a very nice tip for having taken such good care of me for the past 10 days.
Talked to a couple from Carcassonne, France (Bruno & Monique: Did we miss a candy shop inside the entrance, past the main gate? She works there !) Then 3 back-packers from Paris came in and we chatted with them since we were all heading for Varanasi. My train was scheduled to leave at 7pm (Express) and theirs was scheduled to leave at 7:30 (Super Express). We were advised by their guide that both trains were late. At first it was 2 hours, then it was 4 hours total for mine. I assume their train left at 9:30 because they did not come back into the waiting room. I went to check departure times and the hand written board now indicated 3:30. WHAT ? ! ! ! #(%*%&#(#)%_)q%**** I was in shock. Went back to the waiting room, where I had been talking to a young Indian woman (who works for Human Rights … really interesting discussions) She had watched my luggage, so I watched hers while she went to check on her train’s departure time. The electronic boards were not working, and in any case there were trains arriving and departing on the 3 sets of tracks about every 15 to 20 minutes. Really busy train station since it is a hub for many regions. When she came back she suggested that I go back and enquire again, in case there was an earlier train I could switch to. The guy at the counter could not understand or speak much English and he was not being very patient with my enquiry. A woman, travelling alone ! ! ! Finally in frustration I turned around and asked the group of men behind me if anyone spoke English. No one spoke up, so I tried again with the guy behind the counter. Thankfully a second guy showed up and he could speak a bit more English, but not much. Someone behind me started asking him questions in Hindi and I thought I was up the proverbial creek, but it turns out the man was asking about my train ! He then turned to me and explained that my train would be in at 11 pm on either track # 2, or #3. When I asked why the board indicated 3:30, he explained that it was the number of hours the train was delayed, not the time it would arrive. THANK GOD and this kind man ! I thanked him for helping me out and he walked me back to the 1rst class waiting area. Nice gentleman, who then went off to catch his train.
My berth on the sleeper car. Garbage left behind by other passengers hasn't been removed.
Like sleeping on a very hard bench; no cusioning on it at all Friday
I didn’t think I would sleep much, but I did manage to catch a few hours here and there during the night. I was awake just after 6 am and really needed to use the bathroom, so I went in search of the facilities. Not as bad as I was expecting, there was actually a toilet to sit on rather than just a squat hole. Back in my berth, I started checking to see if I could see name signs at the stations we were stopping at. No luck, all in Hindi. I figured that since my estimated arrival time had initially been 4 am, I should be arriving in Varanasi sometime around 8 am. NOT ! It turns out that we lost even more time during the night since one of the staff informed me that we would arrive at 8:30 or 9:00. Think again ! We were stopped so many times on the side tracks to let other trains go flying by that by the time the train made it in to the station in was past 9:30. Thankfully, when I dragged my luggage to the door to disembark in Varanasi, there was a man there with my name on a piece of paper. Finally, something went right ! It took an hour to drive from the station to the hotel and I swear the driver must be partially blind. We almost rammed into the center cement median at least 3 times, and if I hadn’t yelled “stop” at one point he would have driven into the back of a motor cycle and a bicycle riding beside it.
My first sight of the Ganga (Ganges) River
My room at the MM Continental; doesn't look bad at all.
Then I saw the bathroom; this is the window above the tub, the wooden sill is completely rotter away.
And this is the bathtub; completely disgusting, just this bucket, scoopers and a small stool to sit on.
My nerves are SHOT.
Enjoyed a lazy morning at the hotel and took advantage of the noon check out. Neema picked me up to drive me to the train station in Satna, which is 104 km away. It took us 2 hours to get there due to poor road conditions and the many villages we crossed. We also drove through the Panna Tiger Reserve. I kept my eyes glued to the countryside in hopes of seeing a tiger somewhere, but it was not to be.
My train was not scheduled to leave until 7 pm, so I had a 5 hour wait at the station. I told Neema there was no need for him to wait with me, so that he could take advantage of the daylight to start his drive back to Delhi. He made arrangements for a porter to help me into the station, and into the correct train and carriage when it arrived. I gave him a very nice tip for having taken such good care of me for the past 10 days.
Talked to a couple from Carcassonne, France (Bruno & Monique: Did we miss a candy shop inside the entrance, past the main gate? She works there !) Then 3 back-packers from Paris came in and we chatted with them since we were all heading for Varanasi. My train was scheduled to leave at 7pm (Express) and theirs was scheduled to leave at 7:30 (Super Express). We were advised by their guide that both trains were late. At first it was 2 hours, then it was 4 hours total for mine. I assume their train left at 9:30 because they did not come back into the waiting room. I went to check departure times and the hand written board now indicated 3:30. WHAT ? ! ! ! #(%*%&#(#)%_)q%**** I was in shock. Went back to the waiting room, where I had been talking to a young Indian woman (who works for Human Rights … really interesting discussions) She had watched my luggage, so I watched hers while she went to check on her train’s departure time. The electronic boards were not working, and in any case there were trains arriving and departing on the 3 sets of tracks about every 15 to 20 minutes. Really busy train station since it is a hub for many regions. When she came back she suggested that I go back and enquire again, in case there was an earlier train I could switch to. The guy at the counter could not understand or speak much English and he was not being very patient with my enquiry. A woman, travelling alone ! ! ! Finally in frustration I turned around and asked the group of men behind me if anyone spoke English. No one spoke up, so I tried again with the guy behind the counter. Thankfully a second guy showed up and he could speak a bit more English, but not much. Someone behind me started asking him questions in Hindi and I thought I was up the proverbial creek, but it turns out the man was asking about my train ! He then turned to me and explained that my train would be in at 11 pm on either track # 2, or #3. When I asked why the board indicated 3:30, he explained that it was the number of hours the train was delayed, not the time it would arrive. THANK GOD and this kind man ! I thanked him for helping me out and he walked me back to the 1rst class waiting area. Nice gentleman, who then went off to catch his train.
At 10:40 pm, the porter showed up to carry my bags up and over to track # 2. Just as we were arriving, I saw the Super Express taking off for Varanasi, so I knew the group from France were already on their way. My train didn’t show up until 11:30, but the nice little porter (poor guy who had to carry my extra heavy suitcase balanced on top of his head) stayed with me the entire time and saw me safely aboard and into my berth. He got a little bit extra on his promised tip and was very thankful. I was so tired by then that I just took my shoes off and lay down on the very hard leather bench that was to be my bed for the night. My large suitcase was on the floor, safe enough since it’s so heavy; my carry-on and purse were tucked away at the head of the berth need the window and I used them as a pillow. The guy who takes care of the sleeper car came by with a couple of sheets, a blanket and a tiny pillow; made sure I was settled in, closed the light and the curtain and left me to sleep.
I didn’t think I would sleep much, but I did manage to catch a few hours here and there during the night. I was awake just after 6 am and really needed to use the bathroom, so I went in search of the facilities. Not as bad as I was expecting, there was actually a toilet to sit on rather than just a squat hole. Back in my berth, I started checking to see if I could see name signs at the stations we were stopping at. No luck, all in Hindi. I figured that since my estimated arrival time had initially been 4 am, I should be arriving in Varanasi sometime around 8 am. NOT ! It turns out that we lost even more time during the night since one of the staff informed me that we would arrive at 8:30 or 9:00. Think again ! We were stopped so many times on the side tracks to let other trains go flying by that by the time the train made it in to the station in was past 9:30. Thankfully, when I dragged my luggage to the door to disembark in Varanasi, there was a man there with my name on a piece of paper. Finally, something went right ! It took an hour to drive from the station to the hotel and I swear the driver must be partially blind. We almost rammed into the center cement median at least 3 times, and if I hadn’t yelled “stop” at one point he would have driven into the back of a motor cycle and a bicycle riding beside it.
My first sight of the Ganga (Ganges) River
At the hotel, my guide is waiting for me and gives me a breakdown of what the plan is.
I immediately advise him that I’ve decided NOT to take the train from Varanasi to return to Delhi as had been planned; I’m paying extra and flying back on Sunday. Enough is enough with these very late and slow trains. The voucher I was in given in Agra says that my train leaves at around 2 pm on Sunday afternoon and I don't get into Delhi until the following morning. No way am I spending all those hours (and possibly more !) on another train. He agrees and says that he will arrange for my flight ticket.
First order of business is to get some breakfast since I have not eaten a meal since yesterday morning. I’m then shown to my room where I can crash for the rest of the day and go out for dinner at 7 pm with my guide.
The lobby and restaurant had not impressed me much, but the room seemed OK; then I saw the bathroom…. BAD BAD BAD. My room at the MM Continental; doesn't look bad at all.
Then I saw the bathroom; this is the window above the tub, the wooden sill is completely rotter away.
And this is the bathtub; completely disgusting, just this bucket, scoopers and a small stool to sit on.
No shower curtain and I decide to wear my beach flip-flops into the tub. Can’t use the shower so I sit on the little stool and use the bucket and dipper to wash up, trying not to think of all the other dirty bums that rested on this plastic stool beside mine. At least I’m clean now and have time to relax. I look at the guide that has been left in the room and notice that it says “MM Continental” Hotel. I was supposed to be staying at the “Alka” Hotel. Has it changed names and they simply kept using the old guides? I’m too tired to worry about it.
Oh crap ! there is only one sheet on the bed, the one covering the mattress, none between me and the blanket. Well that’s not going to happen, I asked for and promptly received an extra sheet and I’ve put my spare nightgown on top of the pillows because the pillow cases don’t look very nice.My nerves are SHOT.
At 7 pm Kumar was there to pick me up to go to a nice Indian restaurant. Surprise ! He is driving a motorcycle and suggests that I ride side saddle like other Indian ladies, since I am wearing a skirt. Well I only managed a few feet on a rutty road, before he suggested I ride normally. Managed to get my skirt tucked in under me and off we went. It wasn’t that far by bike, but would have been too far to walk. The restaurant turns out to be on a dead end street, and is located in an open courtyard. Not as “nice” as I was expecting, but the Indian food was delicious. No wine, so I have some beer with my meal. Indians make good beer (not that I am a beer drinker usually). Kumar leaves my table a few times to go talk to two young Japanese women sitting at another table. Turns out he is also escorting them and the three of us will go back to the hotel together in a taxi. His job was done, so he left us under the care of the restaurant owner and took off.
We were back at the hotel shortly after 8 pm and I was happy to have an early night of it since I had not slept much, or well, on the train. There is a huge hotel behind ours, and my room looks out into their treed yard. Guess what? Party every night in their gardens and the music is blaring away. I turn on the fan so I have my own background noise, put in my ear plugs and try to go to sleep. I managed it eventually and woke up at some point during the night to silence, so I closed the fan and went back to sleep.
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